Saturday, July 21, 2007
Piano tuning
Every piano on board ship is tuned every morning. I've been in the presence of two such tuning already today. I just love that they take the musical part of the trip seriously enough to this.
Oslo
We docked just on the north side of the fortress wall that faces the sea from town, and from here on Deck 12 most of the fortress is below me, but not all of it. It's an impressive view. In this distance on the mountainside we can easily see the ski jump, which IMO is much overrated as a tourist attraction but which sure is big and sure is high. Not far from us are smaller docks and the city hall.
It turned out we'd missed connections with Kristiana's Norwegian relatives - currently up at their mountain cabin - so we wandered Oslo on our own. Kristiana bought tickets for the Harry poTter movie in town, and I discovered a terrific jazz store, the kind where you can walk in and say "I'm looking for Scandinavian jazz that I might not find in America, and I like so-and-so, so-and-so, and so-and-so" and be handed stacks of great local recordings by an enthusiastic proprietress and directed to a well-equipped listening station, which is what I did. I lost track of how much time I spent there. I left with my wallet considerably lightened but my mood more so, a pretty good trade.
I had intended to go back in the evening (they're open until midnight) while Kristiana, Kristi and Madelyn went to the movie (which they greatly enjoyed), but slept through the opportunity instead. Nuts.
It turned out we'd missed connections with Kristiana's Norwegian relatives - currently up at their mountain cabin - so we wandered Oslo on our own. Kristiana bought tickets for the Harry poTter movie in town, and I discovered a terrific jazz store, the kind where you can walk in and say "I'm looking for Scandinavian jazz that I might not find in America, and I like so-and-so, so-and-so, and so-and-so" and be handed stacks of great local recordings by an enthusiastic proprietress and directed to a well-equipped listening station, which is what I did. I lost track of how much time I spent there. I left with my wallet considerably lightened but my mood more so, a pretty good trade.
I had intended to go back in the evening (they're open until midnight) while Kristiana, Kristi and Madelyn went to the movie (which they greatly enjoyed), but slept through the opportunity instead. Nuts.
www.barejazz.com - my new favorite place in Oslo.
Kristiansand
After we reboarded from Bergen I spotted a chair massage station that had been set up by the pool, and signed up for 15 minutes. The masseuse zeroed right in on some longstanding tight spots ("a classic computer back," she said) and was so effective that I booked a full hour the next day.
That day our port was Kristiansand, and while Kristiana went ashore to explore, I headed up to the spa. I encountered GK in the locker room and we had a brief conversation, during which I explained a particularly painful stretch my trainer has me do, and GK asked me if my trainer were German.
The massage was extremely tenderizing, and not long after I met up with Kristiana in Kristiansand I was ready to reboard the ship, since my feet, where the masseuse had devoted 10 or so minutes, did not seem to be up to being walked upon for more than a few minutes. Which was too bad, because Kristiansand, which is the main day-ferry port from Denmark, is a very pretty resort town in which to amble away an afternoon. Kristiana's ambling had to siffice for both of us.
It was a busy night on board ship for entertainment: first a short three-act play by Sue Scott and Tim Russell, PHC's two main voice talents, about a man trying to overcome his voice-impressions addiction; then the passenger talent show hosted by GK, a mixed bag though mostly pretty good. A little while later PHC's sound effects man Fred Newman gave a talk which was partly about sound and its effects on personality and culture, and partly joke-telling. We didn't get to sleep until late.
That day our port was Kristiansand, and while Kristiana went ashore to explore, I headed up to the spa. I encountered GK in the locker room and we had a brief conversation, during which I explained a particularly painful stretch my trainer has me do, and GK asked me if my trainer were German.
The massage was extremely tenderizing, and not long after I met up with Kristiana in Kristiansand I was ready to reboard the ship, since my feet, where the masseuse had devoted 10 or so minutes, did not seem to be up to being walked upon for more than a few minutes. Which was too bad, because Kristiansand, which is the main day-ferry port from Denmark, is a very pretty resort town in which to amble away an afternoon. Kristiana's ambling had to siffice for both of us.
It was a busy night on board ship for entertainment: first a short three-act play by Sue Scott and Tim Russell, PHC's two main voice talents, about a man trying to overcome his voice-impressions addiction; then the passenger talent show hosted by GK, a mixed bag though mostly pretty good. A little while later PHC's sound effects man Fred Newman gave a talk which was partly about sound and its effects on personality and culture, and partly joke-telling. We didn't get to sleep until late.
Bergen
Thursday was our stopover in Bergen, Norway's "second city". and my favorite. With its hilly terrain and lovely structures, Bergen reminds me of a cross between Belvedere where I grew up, and the Claremont section of Oakland - but with the added advantages of a university, romantic cobblestoned streets, and a Swiss-style peak accessible by funicular with extraordinary views available from the top and trails leading from there into the forest.
So I was among the first down the gangway when it opened, and explored a park near the ship that I hadn't seen on our earlier visit. Kristiana caught up with me a little while later and we set off uphill, choosing our direction from a small sign pointing the way: Barista Kaffehous, 300m.
300m upwards into a hilly neighborhood is a fair distance, and took us past lots of homes, small squares, and vistas with sightlines across the city. Bergen is the kind of town where businesses appear inoffensively on residential streets - you don't need to go down to the city center to find a grocer, hairdresser or video rental - and it was on one of these streets that we found our kaffeehous, which was closed. Closed! Norway is in most respects a highly enlightened society, but a coffeehouse that doesn't open until 11am is in my opinion a throwback to barbaric times.
We continued upward, coffeeless, for some time until Kristiana's patience for my choosing the upward path at each fork was exhausted. She turned downward while I continued upward. Only a couple of minutes later we each, on our respective paths, encountered a station along the funicular path to to the city peak. The ticket machine at mine wasn't working, so Kristiana bought two tickets at hers, boarded, hopped out at mine and handed me a ticket through the rails, to the amusement of thr tram's conductor. Reaching the top we had the pleasure of a view of *everything*, which was quite a lot, as Bergen is a much more extensive city than is evident from its seaport. Eventually we'd had enough and took the tram back down, all the way to its base just a block or so off the tourist waterfront. The line waiting to board was immense - we would not have boarded had we been faced with it. We answered the "is it worth it?" questions of some fellow travelers with the advice that they walk to a higher station, but they seemed disinclined to do so. This was a pity in my opinion, because I thought those very streets the most charming part of my visit to the city.
We still had an important errand to do, a visit to Gallerie Bryggen, a sort of Viking/Norse/Celtic art/artifact shop where we had whiled away some hours on our previois visit buying, among other things, a very beautiful and somewhat expensive decorative mirror. A nightmare of shipping strikes, shipping delays, breakage and insurance failure followed which I will spare you except to say that both we and the gallery found ourselves hard done by, and we arguably somewhat more so. So this meeting was something of a settling of accounts, among parties too weary of the history to negotiate very hard. Ultimately our sadly missed mirror was transformed into an agreeable discount on a very beautful handmade silver pendant in the shape of a viking ship's prow, and we all emerged satsfied enough an on good terms.
We dawdled just a little more before our official all-aboard time of 2:30. To avoid the now dense mass of other tourists streaming to and from the ships we took one of the higher roads. This turned out to lead us past a small supermarket where we stocked up on bottled water at something less than the cruise's Evian prices.
So I was among the first down the gangway when it opened, and explored a park near the ship that I hadn't seen on our earlier visit. Kristiana caught up with me a little while later and we set off uphill, choosing our direction from a small sign pointing the way: Barista Kaffehous, 300m.
300m upwards into a hilly neighborhood is a fair distance, and took us past lots of homes, small squares, and vistas with sightlines across the city. Bergen is the kind of town where businesses appear inoffensively on residential streets - you don't need to go down to the city center to find a grocer, hairdresser or video rental - and it was on one of these streets that we found our kaffeehous, which was closed. Closed! Norway is in most respects a highly enlightened society, but a coffeehouse that doesn't open until 11am is in my opinion a throwback to barbaric times.
We continued upward, coffeeless, for some time until Kristiana's patience for my choosing the upward path at each fork was exhausted. She turned downward while I continued upward. Only a couple of minutes later we each, on our respective paths, encountered a station along the funicular path to to the city peak. The ticket machine at mine wasn't working, so Kristiana bought two tickets at hers, boarded, hopped out at mine and handed me a ticket through the rails, to the amusement of thr tram's conductor. Reaching the top we had the pleasure of a view of *everything*, which was quite a lot, as Bergen is a much more extensive city than is evident from its seaport. Eventually we'd had enough and took the tram back down, all the way to its base just a block or so off the tourist waterfront. The line waiting to board was immense - we would not have boarded had we been faced with it. We answered the "is it worth it?" questions of some fellow travelers with the advice that they walk to a higher station, but they seemed disinclined to do so. This was a pity in my opinion, because I thought those very streets the most charming part of my visit to the city.
We still had an important errand to do, a visit to Gallerie Bryggen, a sort of Viking/Norse/Celtic art/artifact shop where we had whiled away some hours on our previois visit buying, among other things, a very beautiful and somewhat expensive decorative mirror. A nightmare of shipping strikes, shipping delays, breakage and insurance failure followed which I will spare you except to say that both we and the gallery found ourselves hard done by, and we arguably somewhat more so. So this meeting was something of a settling of accounts, among parties too weary of the history to negotiate very hard. Ultimately our sadly missed mirror was transformed into an agreeable discount on a very beautful handmade silver pendant in the shape of a viking ship's prow, and we all emerged satsfied enough an on good terms.
We dawdled just a little more before our official all-aboard time of 2:30. To avoid the now dense mass of other tourists streaming to and from the ships we took one of the higher roads. This turned out to lead us past a small supermarket where we stocked up on bottled water at something less than the cruise's Evian prices.
Friday, July 20, 2007
While we were hanging out in Kristiansand
a nearby cargo container. We're thinking it's not local.
Things that happen in Norway that don't in the US, #46
In the supermarket, a line is brought to a standstill. It appears that
Cashier #1 is out of 20 kroner coins.
Cashiers 1 & 2 are separated from each other by (a) customers and (b)
a dividing wall.
Cashier #2 hands a roll of coins to a customer, who hands the roll to
Cashier #1.
Cashier hands a large kroner note to customer, who hands it to Cashier
#2.
Business resumes.
Cashier #1 is out of 20 kroner coins.
Cashiers 1 & 2 are separated from each other by (a) customers and (b)
a dividing wall.
Cashier #2 hands a roll of coins to a customer, who hands the roll to
Cashier #1.
Cashier hands a large kroner note to customer, who hands it to Cashier
#2.
Business resumes.
Observed in a supermarket by Kristiana
Sent from my iPhone
Contemplations on Kristiansand
...Apparently, the wedding business is booming - in my wanderings this
morning, I have seen five places specializing in wedding couture. And
I really haven't been here that long.
morning, I have seen five places specializing in wedding couture. And
I really haven't been here that long.
...It's frustrating to see a book title you're interested in, and then
to realize it's in Norwegian. Which, incidentally, you don't speak.
...Norwegians have Very Cool culinary tools, but somewhat questionable
taste in footwear, if the stores I've been investigating are any
indication.
...The moment the sun comes out, the Norwegians swarm outside. So
it's something when you spot a bunch of them inside one specific place
that looks like a combination of clothing store, bakery, and cafe. I
can take a hint. Lunch, anyone?
Blogged by Kristiana
Sent from my iPhone
Pro-Am Duet Slam
Pro-Am Duet Slam was the title of Wednesday night's entertainment with GK, the band, and four of the professional singers of the cruise. I had a sore throat and decided to skip it, go to bed early, and get the full report later from K, K, & M.
I was awakened by the wholly unfamiliar ring of the bedside cabin phone. "I'm going to be singing with Garrison in a few minutes," Kristiana said. "Can you come up?"
The event turned out to be GK and the pros taking turns singing in various combinations, with the occasional assistance of volunteers from among the passengers, the latter group including both Kristi and Kristiana. Kristi came up firstN singing a song I didn't recognize with one of the pro women. Some time later, almost at the very end of the program, Kristiana's turn came. Not having had a chance to comsult with Garrison and not knowing the extent of his vocal jazz repertoire, she had opted for the safe choice of one of the songs in the little cruise songbook that had been distributed to our rooms: "I will."
Kristiana of course sounded wonderful and GK complimented her that she could have had a career in singing, but it was not, if I may say so, the best singing I have heard from her. As I looked at the video later, this is what dawned on me: the bank and GK, knowing each other very well and Kristiana not at all, determined to hang back, take it slow, and follow her lead. Kristiana, as a trained ensemble performer, in her turn made it her business to follow as closely as possible the band's and co-singer GK's leads. With each party thus concerned foremost with not stepping on the heels of any of the others, the tempo of "I Will" (not a showy song to begin with even under better circumstances) proceeded downward until it reached a sort of least-common-denominator of stately comportment, with threatening and possibly destabilizing innovations such as eighth notes kept to the scarcest possible minimum.
But that's just me. To everyone else the song, and the entire show, appeared to be a rousing success, and in the day following, Kristiana and Kristi received many taps on the shoulder from strangers in the buffet line and elsewhere, praising their voices and their courage.
They really did sound good, and I think it's a pity neither has auditiooned to be part of tonight's passenger talent show.
I was awakened by the wholly unfamiliar ring of the bedside cabin phone. "I'm going to be singing with Garrison in a few minutes," Kristiana said. "Can you come up?"
The event turned out to be GK and the pros taking turns singing in various combinations, with the occasional assistance of volunteers from among the passengers, the latter group including both Kristi and Kristiana. Kristi came up firstN singing a song I didn't recognize with one of the pro women. Some time later, almost at the very end of the program, Kristiana's turn came. Not having had a chance to comsult with Garrison and not knowing the extent of his vocal jazz repertoire, she had opted for the safe choice of one of the songs in the little cruise songbook that had been distributed to our rooms: "I will."
Kristiana of course sounded wonderful and GK complimented her that she could have had a career in singing, but it was not, if I may say so, the best singing I have heard from her. As I looked at the video later, this is what dawned on me: the bank and GK, knowing each other very well and Kristiana not at all, determined to hang back, take it slow, and follow her lead. Kristiana, as a trained ensemble performer, in her turn made it her business to follow as closely as possible the band's and co-singer GK's leads. With each party thus concerned foremost with not stepping on the heels of any of the others, the tempo of "I Will" (not a showy song to begin with even under better circumstances) proceeded downward until it reached a sort of least-common-denominator of stately comportment, with threatening and possibly destabilizing innovations such as eighth notes kept to the scarcest possible minimum.
But that's just me. To everyone else the song, and the entire show, appeared to be a rousing success, and in the day following, Kristiana and Kristi received many taps on the shoulder from strangers in the buffet line and elsewhere, praising their voices and their courage.
They really did sound good, and I think it's a pity neither has auditiooned to be part of tonight's passenger talent show.
Thursday, July 19, 2007
Norway's migrant fisherfolk
settled in Minnesota and the Midwest, it seems a few hardier sorts
made their homes much further north. And during the Prairie Home
Norwegian cruise they are bringing their special magic to our ship's
most premium dining room.
Wednesday, July 18, 2007
Geirangerfjord, yesterday
rain yesterday, when we could capture this:
Meet our dining table mates!
daughter, Madelyn. I say this not because we haven't mentioned them
previously, but because until now we've been spelling their names
wrong....
Dr. No's vessel
boats (smaller than I thought at first) that I mentioned before.
One-upped
The enormous Cunard liner Costa Magica has just sailed past us into port. As it passed I could see it has a big spiral *water slide* on its top deck. Where's Garrison? How come *we* don't get a water slide?
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